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Thursday, 24 January 2008
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Milk Production
Goats are seasonal breeders. This results in seasonal milk production (resulting in less milk and less profit) so commercial farmers stimulate goats to breed out of season by the administration of hormones or the change of light to induce ovulation. The most common method of inducement involves the use of sponges impregnated with progesterone or a synthetic version of this. Goats are usually mated by letting males run with females. For pedigree mating, a single female is brought to a male.
Between 0.68-1.8kg per 305 day lactation is the usual target for milk yield set by commercial farmers. Until fairly recently most goats were dairy breeds. However, there is now an interest in farming specialist breeds for mohair, cashmere and angora.
Dairy goats are usually penned indoors on a dry lot whereas goats used for fibre are usually farmed outdoors (allowed to browse pasture), at least for the summer months. Generally speaking the improved breeds of dairy goats are not very resilient, as they do not have the same insulating fat layer as sheep or the thick hide of a cow.
Goats usually produce 2 kids and once these babies have had 24 hours feeding from their mothers they are removed and reared using artificial teats so that the milk can be sold for human consumption. Fibre producing breeds are usually reared by their mothers until 12-14 weeks of age.
Between 0.68-1.8kg per 305 day lactation is the usual target for milk yield set by commercial farmers. Until fairly recently most goats were dairy breeds. However, there is now an interest in farming specialist breeds for mohair, cashmere and angora.
Dairy goats are usually penned indoors on a dry lot whereas goats used for fibre are usually farmed outdoors (allowed to browse pasture), at least for the summer months. Generally speaking the improved breeds of dairy goats are not very resilient, as they do not have the same insulating fat layer as sheep or the thick hide of a cow.
Goats usually produce 2 kids and once these babies have had 24 hours feeding from their mothers they are removed and reared using artificial teats so that the milk can be sold for human consumption. Fibre producing breeds are usually reared by their mothers until 12-14 weeks of age.
Breeds Of Goats
BAGOT
This ancient native breed is known to have existed continuously since the 1380's. The name is derived from the Bagot family, of Blithfield Hall, Staffordshire, who owned the earliest known herd which roamed wild in Bagots Park, three miles from the Hall.
Its origin is the subject of discussion and research, which may be followed in the publications of the Bagot Goat Breed Society, affiliated to the BGS.
The Bagot is medium sized, with long hair, and horned and has a nervous character. The striking colour pattern which breeders aim for is entirely black from nose to shoulder, entirely white behind the shoulder line, however this pattern currently does not always bred true.
Bagot numbers have fluctuated for a variety of reasons but the breed is now secure as herds exist in many locations, and numbers are increasing, even though it is not a productive breed, except possibly for meat. Purchasers of Bagot stock should ensure that it is pure-bred. At one time a grading up programme was operated to increase numbers and decrease inbreeding. Bagot males were used on any female goat and progeny were backcrossed. With hindsight this programme produced unfortunate results.
The Bagot Goat Breed Society has all the pedigrees of registered animals on computer, so that pure breeding may be ascertained.
HARNESS
Ever since the goat was domesticated it has been used as a beast of burden. In the Roman times children used to mimic their elders and raced each other in miniature chariots. Even now in some countries they are being used to carry loads, small children, wood for burning, their uses never end. From Victorian times until the start of World War 2 in England, the goat and its chaise was a popular sight around the seaside towns especially on the South and East Coasts. Used for the half penny ride and also as a photographers tool, unfortunately the goat and the donkey were much abused.
The Harness Goat Society was formed in 1986 to encourage the use of a working goat, pack or driven and to make sure no cruelty was involved.
All breeds of goat of either sex can be trained, but the Society recommends a disbudded or polled castrated male as being the most suitable.
PYGMY
Pygmy goats are miniatures, genetically dwarfed; they are kept mainly for enjoyment, interest and companionship.
The Pygmy Goat Club has set breed standards regarding size and type, and organises show classes for Pygmy goats. It has its own registration and pedigree system aimed at improvement by selective breeding. Basically the adult Pygmy has a maximum height at the withers of approximately 56 cm for males, less for females, short legs and cobby bodies that give an impression of perpetual pregnancy. They can be any colour except completely white, with white Swiss markings on the face not allowed.
They are generally quiet and docile, but there is some variation, as one would expect with goats.
Housing requirements are less demanding than for the dairy breeds, since the goats are so much smaller. Kids are reared on the dams, so milking is only rarely necessary. Castrated males (wethers) make ideal pets, but entire males should not be kept unless separate accommodation can be provided for them. The goats like company, so keeping single Pygmies should be avoided.
Pygmies need a high proportion of dietary fibre on a daily basis (80% by weight of the diet is a guide), hay being the main feature; they also need small amounts of low protein goat mix twice a day. They graze and browse well, but tethering Pygmies should be avoided.
The Pygmy Goat Club publishes an excellent booklet “Pygmy Goats” that describes in detail all aspects of housing, feeding, breeding and general welfare of these goats. It is recommended that this booklet is purchased and read before deciding to go ahead with keeping Pygmies. The P.G.C. has a website: http://www.pygmygoatclub.org/ where further details can be obtained about the Club. There is also a network of P.G.C. Regional Advisers.
This ancient native breed is known to have existed continuously since the 1380's. The name is derived from the Bagot family, of Blithfield Hall, Staffordshire, who owned the earliest known herd which roamed wild in Bagots Park, three miles from the Hall.
Its origin is the subject of discussion and research, which may be followed in the publications of the Bagot Goat Breed Society, affiliated to the BGS.
The Bagot is medium sized, with long hair, and horned and has a nervous character. The striking colour pattern which breeders aim for is entirely black from nose to shoulder, entirely white behind the shoulder line, however this pattern currently does not always bred true.
Bagot numbers have fluctuated for a variety of reasons but the breed is now secure as herds exist in many locations, and numbers are increasing, even though it is not a productive breed, except possibly for meat. Purchasers of Bagot stock should ensure that it is pure-bred. At one time a grading up programme was operated to increase numbers and decrease inbreeding. Bagot males were used on any female goat and progeny were backcrossed. With hindsight this programme produced unfortunate results.
The Bagot Goat Breed Society has all the pedigrees of registered animals on computer, so that pure breeding may be ascertained.
HARNESS
Ever since the goat was domesticated it has been used as a beast of burden. In the Roman times children used to mimic their elders and raced each other in miniature chariots. Even now in some countries they are being used to carry loads, small children, wood for burning, their uses never end. From Victorian times until the start of World War 2 in England, the goat and its chaise was a popular sight around the seaside towns especially on the South and East Coasts. Used for the half penny ride and also as a photographers tool, unfortunately the goat and the donkey were much abused.
The Harness Goat Society was formed in 1986 to encourage the use of a working goat, pack or driven and to make sure no cruelty was involved.
All breeds of goat of either sex can be trained, but the Society recommends a disbudded or polled castrated male as being the most suitable.
PYGMYPygmy goats are miniatures, genetically dwarfed; they are kept mainly for enjoyment, interest and companionship.
The Pygmy Goat Club has set breed standards regarding size and type, and organises show classes for Pygmy goats. It has its own registration and pedigree system aimed at improvement by selective breeding. Basically the adult Pygmy has a maximum height at the withers of approximately 56 cm for males, less for females, short legs and cobby bodies that give an impression of perpetual pregnancy. They can be any colour except completely white, with white Swiss markings on the face not allowed.
They are generally quiet and docile, but there is some variation, as one would expect with goats.
Housing requirements are less demanding than for the dairy breeds, since the goats are so much smaller. Kids are reared on the dams, so milking is only rarely necessary. Castrated males (wethers) make ideal pets, but entire males should not be kept unless separate accommodation can be provided for them. The goats like company, so keeping single Pygmies should be avoided.
Pygmies need a high proportion of dietary fibre on a daily basis (80% by weight of the diet is a guide), hay being the main feature; they also need small amounts of low protein goat mix twice a day. They graze and browse well, but tethering Pygmies should be avoided.
The Pygmy Goat Club publishes an excellent booklet “Pygmy Goats” that describes in detail all aspects of housing, feeding, breeding and general welfare of these goats. It is recommended that this booklet is purchased and read before deciding to go ahead with keeping Pygmies. The P.G.C. has a website: http://www.pygmygoatclub.org/ where further details can be obtained about the Club. There is also a network of P.G.C. Regional Advisers.
Some Basics
Goats, although traditionally thought of as farm animal, do make good pets. A perennial favorite in petting zoos, their curious, friendly nature make them good companions. There are a wide variety of breeds available, and the dwarf or pygmy varieties are probably the most commonly kept as pets.
More about keeping goats as pets:
"Keeping Goats as Pets" by Gary Pfalzbot - an excellent description of what to expect if you decide on a pet goat.
"Pet Goats" by Cleon V. Kimberling, D.V.M - a good summary of the characteristics and needs of goats, from basic care and feeding to health care.
A Few Notes
Goats are herd animals, so should not be kept as solitary animals. A pair (or more) of goats will make a good addition to the right family. A decent amount of space (yard/pasture) will be necessary, depending on the breed and number of goats, so they are best suited for rural areas on farms or acreages. If you live in a city, bylaws may prevent you from keeping goats as they will likely be classed as an agricultural species.
You must also be prepared for the commitment to having goats. Thye do need attention like any other pet, and you need to consider who can look after the goats if you must go away, of if something should happen that means you cannot keep the goats.
For some basic information about the care of dwarf and pygmy goats, the following sites have good information:
Pygmy Goat Information - a brief overview of the characteristics and basic needs of pygmy goats (National Pygmy Goat Association).
Housing for Pygmy Goats - the housing needs of pygmy goats and how to meet them. By Lydia Hale, on the National Pygmy Goat Association web site.
Feeding Pygmy Goats - by Dr. Dr. Ralph Bogart, an overview of the nutritional requirements of pygmy goats.
Goats - From the Irvine Mesa Charros 4-H club, a good overview of goat care. You should also find a veterinarian who will treat your goats. They are susceptible to a number of infectious and chronic diseases. Vaccinations and routine preventative treatment for worms and other parasites are necessary and you should consult a vet for what is required in your area. It is a good idea to review some of the common problems. Health Topics is an collection of articles from the National Pygmy Goat Association about common health concerns of pygmy goats. For a list of veterianarians by state, submitted by other goat owners happy with their services, check Caprine Veterinary Resources.
Be sure your goats are obtained from a conscientious breeder that practices good preventative medicine. If possible it is always best to visit the breeder so you can see in what sort of conditions their goats are kept.
Most importantly, you will want to think about whether you can meet the needs of a goat and whether goats will meet your expectations as a pet a goat before committing to goats as pets.
More about keeping goats as pets:
"Keeping Goats as Pets" by Gary Pfalzbot - an excellent description of what to expect if you decide on a pet goat.
"Pet Goats" by Cleon V. Kimberling, D.V.M - a good summary of the characteristics and needs of goats, from basic care and feeding to health care.
A Few Notes
Goats are herd animals, so should not be kept as solitary animals. A pair (or more) of goats will make a good addition to the right family. A decent amount of space (yard/pasture) will be necessary, depending on the breed and number of goats, so they are best suited for rural areas on farms or acreages. If you live in a city, bylaws may prevent you from keeping goats as they will likely be classed as an agricultural species.
You must also be prepared for the commitment to having goats. Thye do need attention like any other pet, and you need to consider who can look after the goats if you must go away, of if something should happen that means you cannot keep the goats.
For some basic information about the care of dwarf and pygmy goats, the following sites have good information:
Pygmy Goat Information - a brief overview of the characteristics and basic needs of pygmy goats (National Pygmy Goat Association).
Housing for Pygmy Goats - the housing needs of pygmy goats and how to meet them. By Lydia Hale, on the National Pygmy Goat Association web site.
Feeding Pygmy Goats - by Dr. Dr. Ralph Bogart, an overview of the nutritional requirements of pygmy goats.
Goats - From the Irvine Mesa Charros 4-H club, a good overview of goat care. You should also find a veterinarian who will treat your goats. They are susceptible to a number of infectious and chronic diseases. Vaccinations and routine preventative treatment for worms and other parasites are necessary and you should consult a vet for what is required in your area. It is a good idea to review some of the common problems. Health Topics is an collection of articles from the National Pygmy Goat Association about common health concerns of pygmy goats. For a list of veterianarians by state, submitted by other goat owners happy with their services, check Caprine Veterinary Resources.
Be sure your goats are obtained from a conscientious breeder that practices good preventative medicine. If possible it is always best to visit the breeder so you can see in what sort of conditions their goats are kept.
Most importantly, you will want to think about whether you can meet the needs of a goat and whether goats will meet your expectations as a pet a goat before committing to goats as pets.
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